🔗 Share this article

Jack Martin

Colourist based in California who specialises in grey hair. He works with celebrated actors and well-known figures.

Which budget-friendly product is a must-have?

My top pick is a soft fabric towel, or even a gentle tee to dry your hair. It's often overlooked how much stress a typical terrycloth towel can do, especially to silver or chemically treated hair. This one small change can really lessen brittleness and splitting. Another affordable staple is a large-gap comb, to use during washing. It protects the hair while detangling and helps maintain the integrity of the hair shafts, particularly post-bleaching.

Which product or treatment is worth splurging on?

A professional-grade heat styling tool – made with advanced materials, with smart temperature control. Lightened strands can develop brassy tones or get damaged without the proper tool.

Which popular practice is a definite no-go?

DIY bleaching. Social media makes it look easy, but the actual fact is it’s one of the riskiest things you can do to your hair. There are cases where individuals severely damage their locks, break it off or end up with striped effects that are incredibly challenging to remedy. I would also avoid chemical straightening processes on color-treated or grey hair. These formulations are often overly harsh for already fragile strands and can cause long-term damage or discoloration.

What’s the most common mistake you see in your salon?

Individuals choosing unsuitable formulas for their specific hair needs. A number of people misuse violet-based cleansers until their silver or blond hair looks lifeless and muted. A few overdo on strengthening conditioners and end up with rigid, fragile strands. The other major issue is thermal styling minus a barrier. In cases where you employ hot tools or dryers without a heat protectant, – particularly on bleached locks – you’re going to see discoloration, dehydration and damage.

Which solutions help with shedding?

Shedding demands a multifaceted plan. Topically, minoxidil is still one of the most effective treatments. My advice includes follicle treatments containing stimulants to stimulate circulation and support follicle health. Incorporating a clarifying shampoo regularly helps remove residue and allows products to perform better. Supplements such as Nutrafol or Viviscal Pro have also shown positive outcomes. They work internally to benefit externally by addressing hormonal imbalances, anxiety and lack of vital nutrients.

For people looking for something more advanced, PRP therapy – where your own platelet-rich plasma is injected into the scalp – can be effective. Still, my advice is to seeing a dermatologist or trichologist first. Shedding may relate to internal factors, and it’s important to get to the root cause rather than pursuing temporary solutions.

---

Anabel Kingsley

Follicle Expert and brand president of Philip Kingsley centers and lines targeting thinning.

How often do you get your hair cut and coloured?

My trims are every couple of months, but will trim off splits at home bi-weekly to maintain tip integrity, and have lightening sessions every eight weeks.

Which low-cost item is a game-changer?

Toppik hair fibres are absolutely amazing if you have see-through sections. The fibres cling electrostatically to your own hair, and it comes in a range of colors, making it virtually undetectable. It was my go-to post-pregnancy when I had a lot of hair fall – and also now while experiencing some significant shedding after having awful flu a few months ago. As hair isn’t an essential tissue, it’s the initial area to show decline when your nutrition is inadequate, so I would also recommend a well-rounded, nutrient-rich diet.

What justifies a higher investment?

For those with genetic thinning in women, I’d say medicated treatments. When dealing with temporary hair loss, known as TE, buying an retail solution is fine, but for FPHL you really do need medicated treatment to see the best results. From my perspective, minoxidil combined with additional ingredients – such as hormones, anti-androgens and/or anti-inflammatories – works best.

Which popular remedy is ineffective?

Rosemary oil for hair loss. It doesn’t work. This belief comes from a minor study from 2015 that compared the effects of a mild minoxidil solution versus rosemary extract. A mild formula such as 2% is inadequate to do much for male pattern hair loss, so the study is basically saying they work as little as each other.

Likewise, mega-doses of biotin. Rarely do people lack biotin, so using it may not benefit your strands, and it can skew thyroid readings in blood tests.

What blunder stands out often?

Personally, I prefer "scalp cleansing" over "hair washing" – because the primary purpose of washing is to clear away sebum, debris, sweat and pollutants. I notice clients skipping washes as they think it’s bad for their hair, when in fact the reverse is correct – especially if you have dandruff, which is intensified by sebum accumulation. When sebum remains on the skin, they deteriorate and lead to inflammation.

Sadly, scalp requirements and hair preferences may conflict, so it’s a balancing act. Provided you wash delicately and manage wet locks gently, it is unlikely to cause damage.

Which product, treatment or supplement would you recommend for hair loss?

With female pattern loss, minoxidil is essential. It has the most robust evidence behind it and tends to be most effective combined with additional ingredients. Should you wish to enhance minoxidil's benefits, or you choose to avoid it or cannot tolerate it, you could try micro-needling (under professional care), and perhaps injections or laser devices.

In shedding cases, root cause analysis is crucial. Noticeable thinning usually relates to a health trigger. In some instances, the trigger is short-term – such as sickness, virus or emotional strain – and it will clear up naturally. In other cases, thyroid imbalances or vitamin/mineral deficiencies are the driving factor – the frequent culprits include iron stores, B12 and D insufficiency – and to {treat the hair loss you need to treat the cause|address shedding, target the underlying issue|combat thinning, focus